TYPHOON MANILA
BAY-1967
Elsie and Susan have provided
in vivid detail what it was like out there in Manila Bay as Typhoon
Welming burst upon us. Here is the story from the skipper's point of
view, written 30 years after the fact.
Siboney, fully laden for sea, sailed
out of the Manila Yacht Club early Wednesday morning, November 1, 1967
headed for Corregidor and the South China Sea. Seas were calm thus we
motored until just before noon when the traditional Southeast wind piped
up to 18 to 20 knots to push us along at about 6 knots. By 2 p.m. we had
cleared Manila Bay. Corregidor and Bataan fell astern as we jibbed
around for our run south to White Sands Beach, a traditional anchorage
for all who headed South out of Manila. By late afternoon we had
anchored in 15 feet of water, not far off the beach, and at once
launched our dinghy. The entire crew headed for shore, one of the most
pristine in the area. Much of the sand along nearby beaches is dark
gray, the result of volcanic ash and sediments deposited over millennia,
Somehow this beach had been spared, hence its label. Anchored nearby
were three other boats.
Thursday we spent on shore, swimming,
picking up an incredible variety of sea shells, eating a picnic lunch or
ensconced in the shade of one of the many coconut palms that graced this
ideal anchorage. The children had wanted to listen to the radio but the
racket was too much, what with loud examples of the latest craze in
music such as the Beatles. I stowed the radio. We had sailed out here
for peace and quiet.
Friday was another day in paradise. For
a change of pace, we lifted anchor and sailed for Fortune Island, some 8
miles to the West. After lunch and a swim we headed back to White Sands
Beach. Surprised that the anchorage was empty, we nevertheless proceeded
to anchor and fix supper… steaks on the grill, sweet peas and mashed
potatoes. Just as we sat down to eat, along came a lone man in a banca,
the native Filipino outrigger canoe, who rowed alongside and politely
inquired if we had heard about the typhoon. We exploded with surprise
and quickly put on the radio. Every channel spoke of nothing but of
typhoon Welming, with winds of 120 knots now over the island of Mindoro
and forecast to pass 100 miles south of Manila.
Dusk would soon be upon us and we had
to move. I started the engine, asked Elsie to clear the food off the
table, and ordered the boys to haul up the anchor. I headed towards a
shortcut to Manila that led through a series of reefs that I could only
traverse with daylight. As we cleared the decks, the boys and I changed
the mainsail to our storm main, set the small jib onto the forestay,
then proceeded to haul up the dinghy. Just as we had it over the rail it
dropped and a stanchion punctured a hole in the bottom. Jim and Bill,
Jr. lashed it to the deck. Under full power and a reefed main we
proceeded up the coast as night set in. We came upon several fishermen
in their small boats off shore to whom we hollered “Typhoon.” They waved
and continued fishing, obviously aware and prepared for the coming
storm.
Once inside the Bay we continued to
motor for several hours. The night was relatively clear, so much so that
I had a bearing on the light atop the Customs House in Manila, the
Corregidor Light and the Light on Sangley Point, unusual for a storm of
this type. I raised a jib, and further reefed the main. Under power and
sail, we proceed in a generally Eastward direction. By 9 p.m. we were
deep into the Bay, my objective, for in the worst of cases, we would be
surrounded by land and could not be blown out into the depths of the
China Sea.
Wind blew constantly out of the
Northeast. At 10:00 p.m. the anemometer indicated 35 knots and the
barometer, as read to me by Bill, Jr., was down to 29.3 inches, deep
into the range of a severe storm. At midnight wind speed was up to fifty
knots. I had lost one jib which I hauled down and set the second.. Close
hauled and with minimum sail, we motor sailed as best we could into ever
increasing wind and waves. The wind remained steady out of the Northeast
which precluded our clearing the tip of Sangley Point and reaching our
anchorage in Manila. When we were four or five miles west of Sangley
Point I jibbed and headed back to Corregidor expecting the wind shift
to the South if the typhoon continued on its projected track. Waves
continued to wash over “Siboney” and though the companionway was tightly
closed, lots of water filtered into the cabin and onto the motor.
Soaked, our gasoline engine suddenly stopped. When I went below to
re-start it I received a shock that threw me across the cabin. The hot
side of the magneto was obviously soaked and shot its spark about the
cabin. I decided to forgo the engine. Better to stay alive than to fry.
My second jib blew out and the third
shredded before I could get it hoisted and cleated for the wind had now
exceeded 50 knots. I had secured the mainsail to the boom and had
lowered the boom on deck where it lay tightly tied to starboard. We shot
through the water under bare poles easily doing 6 knots .Both Elsie and
I, roped securely to “Siboney”, slumped low in the cockpit with hopes of
missing the main impact of the breakers that continuously washed over
the boat. Elsie on several occasions looked after the children who were
locked below, hanging on as best as they could. The boys kept busy
working the manual bilge pump. Wind speed was now up to 65 knots and
Billy called out the barometer reading at 28.9 inches. At 2 or 3 in the
morning, as we crossed St. Nicholas shoals, a bank with 20 feet of
water, a gigantic wave broke on “Siboney”. Tons of water held us in an
iron fisted grip, picked us up, dragged us, mast down, until it broke
and passed on to its final destructive show of energy on shore. Within
minutes a second wave propelled us again, the mast this time dipping
into the sea for long seconds. With the cockpit full of water, Elsie and
I struggled to breathe.
Never have I welcomed a dawn more
fervently. I could now see the coastline of Cavite, 7 to 8 miles off. I
continued to hope for a wind shift. It wouldn’t take much, 20 degrees or
so, to allow us to sail into town. Wind speed was up to 85 knots as we
sailed back and forth between Corregidor and Sangley Point. I considered
the entire coastline as hostile but as time passed, it became obvious
that if were to be saved, it would be on that shore. All three major
indicators were against us. The barometer plummeted, wind speed
continued to increase, and wind direction remained steady at Northeast.
There is no better indicator that the typhoon was headed our way.
As we sailed back and forth, I had
spotted a large white building on shore, hopefully the home of someone
who would come to our aid. The next move was obvious. Beach the boat in
front of the White Building. Elsie had been below for a while with the
children, praying and preparing them for the unknown. I crawled over to
the hatch and called down, “We’re going to shore. Get shoes and life
preservers on.” Many minutes later, I opened the hatch and asked if they
were ready. “Yes” was the reply. We were about 5 or 6 miles from shore
at the time. I reached over to the main and untied the lashes. It filled
like a spinnaker. We rocketed off, my eye fixed on the white building.
Wind now at 90 knots by anemometer, we must have reached a speed of 11
or 12 knots. Several hundred feet from shore we hit a sand bottom once
and again but the energy in “Siboney” couldn’t be stopped. We hit shore
with the starboard bow and plowed ahead upon the beach until we had but
a foot of water under the boat. I called below for all to jump out.
A dozen people awaited us, all dodging
flying galvanized iron sheets and coconuts. Two ladies grabbed Elsie and
the children and whisked them away. I stayed aboard, in shock, unable to
abandon my boat which had fulfilled its mission so admirably. I remained
mesmerized for a long time. The pleas of several men convinced me to
join my family. And what a surprise I received. All were showered, had
dry clothes, hot chocolate and sat around telling sea stories. I
remained in shock. When Dionisio Gilbert, the Superintendent of the
School of Fisheries, the white building that became my target, asked me
if I had any valuables on board the boat, I replied, “My valuables are
all here. When I made the decision to head for shore, I wrote the boat
off.”
An hour passed, perhaps more. Dionisio
continued to insist about the valuables aboard. Typhoon winds were now
much stronger than when we went to shore. Shock wore off and I at last
said yes, there were valuables aboard. He said, “Let us go retrieve
them.” On our knees we crawled to the boat, he and I and several
students. When we were about thirty feet from the boat a dozen men
erupted from the cabin, each carrying as much as they could. I honestly
felt nothing. Let them go. During the next two hours, with the
anemometer clocking winds of 105 knots, we hauled sails, anchors, and
the hundreds of items that make up a cruising sailboat. We filled three
classrooms with our stuff, all full of sand and dripping.
The eye passed at noon and by four in
the afternoon the sea was quiet and calm. “Siboney” lay 20 feet from
Manila Bay, high and dry. A gentleman, whom I have always referred to as
the “Chief,” came to visit with sincere deep felt apologies for the way
the boat was looted. In 1967, barely 20 years after liberation,
Filipinos continue to love Americans, grateful for their liberation.
Wherever I traveled throughout the Philippines, children and young men
would invariable smile and say “Hi, Joe.” Well, the “Chief”, for in most
remote places in the Philippines, law and order is in the hands of the
local residents, asked me to make a list of everything we had lost in
the looting. I argued long and hard with the “Chief.” I told that him I
did not know what I lost, did not want it back, had written all that
stuff off five miles out, etc. There was no way he would accept anything
but a LIST. Elsie and I, reluctantly, put together a long list that
included her gold watch, binoculars, sextant, clothing, and a bunch of
other stuff. We slept well, breakfasted and about 9 in the morning, the
“Chief” returns with 80% of our belonging!!!, including the gold watch.
I, jokingly, have told a story how the “Chief” went up to the first guy
in the barrio and asked if he had our belongings. When he denied having
any, he pulled out his pistol and shot him. Then he went to the next
group of people and promptly got it all back. It didn’t happen that way,
but almost so.
The “Chief” had hired his brother to
watch the boat which with our ropes and bamboo sticks, was now fenced
off. Out towards the Bay, beyond “Siboney”, ugly coral heads sprung out
of the water covering the entire shoreline except for a two hundred foot
section in front of the school; obviously the reason the site was
selected. We still had the problem of how to get back to town. Sally and
our friends had to be worried. At the Manila Yacht Club no doubt bar
sales had skyrocketed as all drank to the demise of their Commodore.
Fallen poles and trees blocked all roads into Manila. There was no
electricity or telephones. We needed to get back. Through Dionisio we
located a young man with an outrigger dugout canoe, about 12 feet long,
with a lawn mower type engine to propel it. I promptly hired him, piled
my family into the banca and headed to Manila, some 18 miles to the
East.
Past Sangley Point, with the Manila
Yacht Club less than 6 miles distant, the motor stopped. Having jousted
with Briggs and Stratton engines for years, I joined our captain in his
struggle to get it going. An hour passed as all four males yanked the
starting rope, plugs were cleaned, fuel checked, to no avail. The boat
had a short “mast” which I grabbed on to as I searched the horizon. Two
more hours passed as we remained once again, castaway. Suddenly, I see
emerging from the MYC a sailboat, and it is heading our way. I take off
my T shirt and wave as it approaches. It is Van Bloemen, the Vice
Commodore, in his big Dutch Ketch. As he comes alongside he looks over
and says “Butler, what are you doing here?” I could only shrug. Towed
into the Club, we received a warm welcome.
My good friend, Don Marshall, owner of
Luzon Stevedoring Company, offered me the use of a 20 ton floating
crane with the proviso that no typhoons brewed. Three weeks passed until
he sent one crew by land to dig under the boat to place two large rope
slings, and the crane and tugboat left early in the day. High tide was
at 11 that night. I sailed with Sanderson, the Lloyds agent, in his high
speed motorboat for Cavite to spot the boat on a totally obscured shore
still without power. The complex problem was eased by his high powered
searchlight as we scanned mile by mile. We located “Siboney”, steered
the tugboat captain into shore, and then headed in ourselves in his
inflatable. All was ready. The tug pushed the crane onto the shore, the
boom dipped, the foreman placed the slings into the hook and with a
sharp order up popped “Siboney” and onto the deck of the barge.
Back at the Manila Yacht Club,
“Siboney” rested for a month, until I at last decided to go ahead with
its repair, coaxed on by my good friend and master carpenter, Cadion.
The starboard side was totally crushed and had to be replaced. I
searched Manila for adequate lumber. Most wood I found was kiln dried,
which tends to be brittle as the custom is to over fire the ovens.
Friends put me on to a yard which had 18 to 20 foot long, 12 inch wide,
3 inch thick mahogany, all air dried. I bought his entire inventory for
under $400. He split the 3 inch widths into 1.5 and 1 inch boards. At
another yard I found palusapis, as good as ash, for the frames. In
Chinatown I located ¼ by three inch ex-GI bronze bolts for use as
fastenings.
Cadion went to work right after New
Years Day. 17 carpenters, without power tools except for a drill which
was mostly used to generate wood plugs, worked 12 hour days. Cadion
pleaded, “Sir, you fix the starboard side only, you will have half a new
boat and half old. You have bought enough wood to rebuild the entire
boat.” And on that same tack, he talked me into redoing the deck and
cabin. We ended up with a new boat. Cadion produced two 12 foot lengths
of 8 inch pipe, filled them with water for use to bend frames. Utilizing
lumber coming off the boat, he boiled the water with six 2x3 inch frames
in each tube. Through experience he found that after boiling for four
hours, the frames turned spaghetti-like. Thus the new boat emerged. He
fastened the new frames to the existing planks, then replaced the planks
from the garboard on up. When it came time to caulk, 12 caulkers turned
the club into a machine gun range. I was sure I would be impeached.
At high tide at 11pm, February 15,
surrounded by a hundred friends, we launched “Siboney. ” On February 28,
with my China Sea Crew, we sailed the Lubang race, with an empty
interior and no engine, and won the Wilkinson Trophy. Cadion said, enuf
is enuf.. “I need the boat to finish the interior if you want to go to
Hong Kong in April. When we sailed to Hong Kong, wood shavings still
littered the deck.
I sailed “Siboney another 20 years, but
then, that’s another story.
Bill Butler, July, 2000 |